• Pinging is bad:
• Normally, a little light pinging, is considered ok. NOT FOR A TURBO ENGINE!
• I've herd many stories of exploded engines.
• This said. My original engine would always ping, a little, regardless of gas type (Premium gas would not fix this; Only thing that would fix this was, retarding the base timing).
• My engine, I have now, will sometimes ping, a little. Usually on a vary hot days, at near or part WOT (not full (Premium gas WILL fix this;  Retarding the base timing, doesn't completely).
• I'm told, that it is a bad idea to run any turbo engine on regular-87-octaine gas, 91-oct. minimum.
• The 22rte has a ping detector, that retards the timing. So I think 87-oct. is ok; Especially, if you not pinging, at 6-8 PSI of boost.

• Known problems:
• Drivability problems. "Trailer pulling", missing at idle, and at around 2000-3000 RPM, usually around 2500 RPM.
• Presently, no known fix. I've replace every EFI part, and had the engine rebuilt.
• Probably is a lean miss.
• I added propane to the AFM air inlet, during the miss, will remove the problem during this test).
• Temporally, blocking off the EGR, this will somewhat reduce the miss, but not eliminate it.
• More, on what I've tried...
• The problem was there before any mods, were ever done!

 
• Hint's of what the problem is:
• Problem has two possible states. A little annoying; And, fully screwed up.
• Can switch between the two without users input.
• When screwed up, engine really miss fires, sounds like bad valve in exhaust note - runs like a dog.
• Usually, will fail SMOG.
• It through, no error codes (pre OBD), and will show, an ok Vf of 2.25vdc (normal).
• Anything, will sometime fix the problem.  I.e., change any part, will probably fix it; Then later, it will come back?
• There seems to be a "sweet spot" for the AFM. Its a trial and error procedure. It likes to run a little lean-ish.
• Counter intuitive as it seems; Its running lean, has a lean miss fire, and believe it or not;
• Sometime, I can get either conditions (annoying or screwed up) to almost go away, by adjusting the AFM's fine and/ or coarse adjustments.
• This requires a real (wide band) A/F meter, I.e. a SMOG machine. The problem, the average "tech" is not qualified to do this, and some consisted it blasphemy (SMOG uncouth). Even if this results in a cleaner running vehicle. This can take many hours of trial and error tuning...
• Adjusting the TPS within the spec's, will move the miss around. I.e.;  I've moved myn to 2100 RPM, where I never drive (cruz)!
• I think that something in the EFI computer is miss programmed. I suspect that some value, is not in the center of the expected range. I wish, I had access to the engineer who worked on the 22RTE (ECU/EFI Integration, for our trucks. I have all the books on, L-Jetronics (Bosch. What our EFI is designed around), but I still would like more information. I know more than any one I know about it, but I know nothing compared to what I'd like to know.  What baffles me the most is how the computer can, just flip out and dos not through any codes, no engine light, and the Vf (2.25v) remains, normal???

• Warm start, problem; Hard to start, and run (Problem solved, read below):
• Symptom:
• If you go to the store, shop for 10-30 minutes, then try to drive off, engine runs vary poorly,
• Smoothes out after a couple minuets, or less,
• There is a TSB for this problem, but it dose not work (it's already been done).
• It's a little hard to start normally (Problem solved, read below):
• Starts easier, if you use the right technique. Especially good for starting during "warm start, problem." (see above):
• Tap the throttle,
• Crank engine for two seconds, stop,
• Crank engine for three seconds, stop,
• Usually starts by now. Otherwise repeat, once more.
• Hold throttle 25% way down, repeat above, when engine starts reduce throttle to about 1000 RPM.
• If this happens allot, you probably have a problem...

• Solution to worm hot start problems:
  • I was told the Cold start time switch and the thermal switch on the thermostat housing was the updated part twice. Tray were misinformed. I got the same old parts!
  • What to do: 
    • Get TSB, "Hard starting Rough idle," dated 10-20-89 (#011), and read it! 
    • Replace Cold start time switch, and Switch #2:

Part Name	Old Parts	New Parts
Switch Start Injector Time.	89462-30011	89462-20050
Switch Temperature No. 2	89428-28030	89428-26020
Disconnect Wire to ECU	"ACV"	Disconnect ACV

• Down side to Update/ Mod.:
  • Sometimes a little hard to start when cold.
  • Runs too rich at worm/hot start for a minute or so...
  • May interfere with the AC fast idle up - As the ACV will be disconnected???
• Up side to Update/ Mod.:
  • Runs ok worm& hot when first started...

• Oil Leaks, front main seal area:
• If replacing the front main seal, do to a leak, and you have over 100K miles on the engine, it needs a seal shim, too...
• FelPro, "Engine Saver" #16214 (21-2514),
• Also polish the seal area on the harmonic balancer,
• And, while your at it, replace the O-ring seal, between the oil pump and timing cover.

• Almost totally worn out rear brake drums, and dragging brakes:
• Symptoms:
• Rear brakes dragging, and over heating, overactive self adjusters, after (before) brake job:
• Application: 4x4; 295mm (11.614in) rear drum brakes:
• If your at, or near: 297mm (11.693in), the limit,
• Do not reuse drums!
• Turn new drums (.01-.02in),
• Or may rub backing plate, during, vary tight fast, turns...

• Other problems:
• Distributor pickup coil  (PUC) spec. problem. Factory manual spec's for the distributors PUC is, 140-180 OHMs (no temp is spec-ed). New PUC is 180-300 OHMs (230 OHMs typ. @ 120-190F deg. (Operating temperature.  This is what I have measured).
• Toyota sez, "don't worry about it , it's ok!"
• This would cause a typical mechanic to replace this part, and would NOT, recheck the new part, witch would be out of spec, as well...
• I'm concerned about the problem, as it may be a real problem!
• Fuel vapor canister. SMOG canister. Test procedure is wrong. The new ones work just like to old ones.
• This would cause a typical mechanic to replace this part, and would NOT, recheck the new part, witch would be out of spec, too...
• I'm concerned about the problem, There is a error in the manual! I believe that this is NOT real problem (other than Toyota is sold out, as I got the last one; And the manual is wrong).
• Turbo mystery canister and valves, located under battery on the frame. Part of FPU valve, and the turbo boost light (green dash LED) and powers OEM two stage fuel pump. No test procedure in the factory manual. Only was used for 1986-87, not for 1985 or 1988 turbos? The part is no longer available. Why?
• Factory wiring,  and splices go bad (check page 2, center column, 1/2 down). Especially, the connections to the fuel injectors, under the plenum area.
• Some repair facilities, have a tester that will test the wiring harness, including the injectors (#10, #20). I have passed this test (Note the older software in this tester, dose not know that the injectors (#10, #20) are wired in parallel (batch fired (all squirt), not bank fired (cylinders 1+3, 2+4), nor sequential) and give the some of all four, instead of just two injectors.

• The exhaust nuts loosen up from the heat the cycling (cold to 1300F degrees, cold, etc...).
• Check the nuts and bolts on the exhaust system every 6 months, as they may loosen up...

• Turbo fails at 50-80,000 miles (CT-20). Basically, caused by bad design, and too much heat. See my cracked turbo page; Also, see my turbo page; Driving behavior page, and turbo down pipe page...